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<article article-type="research-article" dtd-version="1.3" xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xml:lang="ru"><front><journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher-id">arte</journal-id><journal-title-group><journal-title xml:lang="ru">Электронный научно-исследовательский журнал Сибирского государственного института искусств имени Дмитрия Хворостовского "ARTE"</journal-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>ARTE</trans-title></trans-title-group></journal-title-group><issn pub-type="epub">2687-1106</issn><publisher><publisher-name>СГИИ имени Д. Хворостовского</publisher-name></publisher></journal-meta><article-meta><article-id custom-type="elpub" pub-id-type="custom">arte-131</article-id><article-categories><subj-group subj-group-type="heading"><subject>Research Article</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="ru"><subject>ТЕОРИЯ И ПРАКТИКА ДИЗАЙНА</subject></subj-group></article-categories><title-group><article-title>«Сибирский след» в истории костюма и фэшн-дизайне</article-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>“Siberian trace” in the history of costume and fashion design</trans-title></trans-title-group></title-group><contrib-group><contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes"><name-alternatives><name name-style="eastern" xml:lang="ru"><surname>Никольская</surname><given-names>С. П.</given-names></name><name name-style="western" xml:lang="en"><surname>Nikolskaya</surname><given-names>S. P.</given-names></name></name-alternatives><bio xml:lang="ru"><p>Никольская Светлана Петровна, доцент, кафедра промышленного дизайна</p><p>Нижний Новгород</p></bio><bio xml:lang="en"><p>Svetlana P. Nikolskaya, Associate Professor, Industrial Design Department</p><p>Nizhny Novgorod</p></bio><email xlink:type="simple">nsv5nsv7@gmail.com</email><xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff-1"/></contrib></contrib-group><aff-alternatives id="aff-1"><aff xml:lang="ru"><institution>Нижегородский государственный архитектурно-строительный университет</institution><country>Россия</country></aff><aff xml:lang="en"><institution>Nizhny Novgorod State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering</institution><country>Russian Federation</country></aff></aff-alternatives><pub-date pub-type="collection"><year>2021</year></pub-date><pub-date pub-type="epub"><day>07</day><month>01</month><year>2022</year></pub-date><volume>0</volume><issue>4</issue><fpage>76</fpage><lpage>84</lpage><permissions><copyright-statement>Copyright &amp;#x00A9; Никольская С.П., 2022</copyright-statement><copyright-year>2022</copyright-year><copyright-holder xml:lang="ru">Никольская С.П.</copyright-holder><copyright-holder xml:lang="en">Nikolskaya S.P.</copyright-holder><license xml:lang="ru" license-type="creative-commons-attribution" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/" xlink:type="simple"><license-p>Данная работа распространяется под лицензией Creative Commons Attribution 4.0.</license-p></license><license xml:lang="en" license-type="creative-commons-attribution" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/" xlink:type="simple"><license-p>This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.</license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://www.sgiiart.ru/jour/article/view/131">https://www.sgiiart.ru/jour/article/view/131</self-uri><abstract><p>Современный дизайн – это вид творческой деятельности, который заставляет пересматривать многие устоявшиеся правила, так как условия взаимодействия человека с предметным миром и окружающей действительностью постоянно меняются. Это заметно, в частности, в усложнении терминологии, что, в свою очередь, подталкивает к поиску новой типологии предметов. С подобной целью обновления типологии автором статьи предпринята попытка выявить исторические аналоги элементу женской одежды под названием «шраг». При сопоставлении некоторых форм традиционного женского костюма возникла необходимость в привлечении ряда этнографических исследований об одежде коренных народов Сибири. Один из изложенных там фактов автор настоящей статьи приводит в качестве аргумента для обоснования типологического сходства рассматриваемых предметов.</p><p>Предметы фэшн-дизайна XX–XXI веков, дополняющие историко-типологический ряд форм, предшествующих «шрагу», демонстрируют, с одной стороны, определённую преемственность. С другой стороны, обновляется представление о критериях типологизации предмета одежды, так как акцент перемещается с его формальных качеств на диапазон возможностей комбинирования разнообразных элементов костюма.</p></abstract><trans-abstract xml:lang="en"><p>Modern design is a type of creative activity that forces us to revise many well-established rules, because the conditions of human interaction with the objective world and the surrounding reality are constantly changing. We notice this fact, in particular, in the growing complication of terminology, which prompts the search for a new typology of subjects. To update the typology the author of the article made an attempt to find historical analogs to an element of women's clothing called “shrug”. When comparing some forms of traditional women's costume, it became necessary to involve a number of ethnographic studies on the clothing of the indigenous peoples of Siberia. The author of this article cites one of the facts stated as an argument to substantiate the typological similarity of the subjects under consideration. Fashion design projects of the XX–XXI centuries, complementing the historical and typological range of forms that preceded the “shrug”, demonstrate, on the one hand, a certain continuity. On the other hand, the idea of the criteria for the typology of a garment is being updated, since the emphasis shifts from its formal qualities to the range of possibilities for combining various elements of a suit.</p></trans-abstract><kwd-group xml:lang="ru"><kwd>фэшн-дизайн</kwd><kwd>типология</kwd><kwd>шраг</kwd><kwd>болеро</kwd><kwd>жакет зуав</kwd><kwd>спенсер</kwd><kwd>«рукава»</kwd><kwd>чогори</kwd><kwd>манто</kwd></kwd-group><kwd-group xml:lang="en"><kwd>fashion design</kwd><kwd>typology</kwd><kwd>shrug</kwd><kwd>bolero</kwd><kwd>zouave jacket</kwd><kwd>spencer</kwd><kwd>«rukava» (“sleeves”)</kwd><kwd>jeogori</kwd><kwd>cloack</kwd></kwd-group><funding-group><funding-statement xml:lang="ru">Благодарю дизайнера Ирину Рубцову за сотрудничество в подготовке графических материалов.</funding-statement><funding-statement xml:lang="en">I would like to thank Irina Rubtsova, the designer, for cooperating with me during the graphic materials preparation.</funding-statement></funding-group></article-meta></front><back><ref-list><title>References</title><ref id="cit1"><label>1</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Айхер Д. 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